Barracuda! A Disturbing Experience of A Different Nature

Laying on the beach in Reileh (or Railay) Beach, Thailand, we needed to get some exercise–snorkeling. We signed up with a tour company, Barracuda Tours, for a 9 a.m. departure to “Four Islands” on a long-tail boat. We expected a nice, small cruise with maybe 10-15 others. But it quickly became aware while I hate these mass group touristy tours.

We waited for the 9 a.m. boat. Ah, it finally arrives at 10:15 a.m. and its 60 other passengers. Spoiler #1. 

We hit the first spot for some snorkeling. The company does not provide the fins, so it is half-snorkeling one could say with just the mask and snorkel. One hour, we are told, to do your snorkeling. We mosey our way around the island and with 20 minutes remaining and swimming next to a huge pink jellyfish, Brooke decides to relax. I continue to snorkel for the final part of the allotted hour. I end it early with five minutes to spare. Brooke is running towards me, yelling, “Hurry up, the boat is leaving!” I make it in the nick of time. Spoiler #2.

A drive-by “Chicken Island” happens before our next snorkeling stop.

We anchor. Unfortunately, Barracuda Tours decides to anchor on the coral. In disbelief, I question this tactic. “It is okay, we lower the anchor; we don’t drop it,” the guide reassures me.  Big Spoiler #3

Next, the tour group allows its passengers to feed the fish loads of bread. As one friend mentioned before, in the thousands of years of fish evolution, fish have yet to learn to mill, cultivate, and eat flour. Spoiler #4.

We make our way for a lunch break on an island that every other snorkeling and tour group from the surrounding area visits. We dine on fried egg over rice and chicken curry. Mind you that it is now 12 p.m. and the lunches have been sitting in the front of the long tail for at least the last three hours. The registered dietitian in Brooke raises her eyebrows. Food safety, ha. She eats it (shh, don’t tell her you know this)! Semi-spoiler #5.

The last stop sets us on Phranang Beach. As we anchor, one of the crew members threw his cigarette butt into the water. Spoiler #6. Since this stop connects to our beach, we skip the boat on the way back and lounge until all the tour groups depart. While the tour starts extremely late, Barracuda Tours had no problem ending the tour at the expected hour. With the groups gone, it becomes a great beach! As we head back, we pass Phrarang Cave. It houses the spirit of Princess Pharang that is worshipped by the locals, as they leave typical offerings: food, candles, flowers, and, oh yeah, of course, wooden lingas. Lots of them. 

Now you understand "lingas"?

 These are not for fertility, but to thank the virgin princess for a trip filled with good luck.

And as we walk back towards our guesthouse, we are surrounded by a huge family–20 to 30, young and old—of crab eating macaques. They swing from the trees, searching for fruit left over by the passing tourists. It looks like they have dinner now!

Macaque enjoying dinner

Who is more scared?

We made a poor decision with Barracuda Tours for numerous faults on their part.  We understand it might be our western minds that want what’s ‘best,’ but when the country has so many beautiful things to offer, it is hard to stomach the company’s lack of appreciation. Unfortunately, our money still supported such unfriendly and poor choices. While the Phranang-Railay Sustainable Tourism Development Project is working to educate the community on the negative effects of this type of tour, it is still difficult to see it in practice.  

In the future we will leave most sights and scenes to be found by our diligent work, not some mass producing tourist company.